Sixth month, Singapore senses

After six months, it seems appropriate to summarise first impressions of life in Sin City:

:: People ::

Kiasu behaviour strongly pervades Singaporean society. This all-consuming fear of 'losing out' causes some people to ignore any semblance of etiquette when using public transport and a relentless determination to be the top dog. Numerous characters have been created to poke fun at this tenacious nature, including Mr Kiasu and Mr Everything Also Know who leads the 'Know Your Singapore' Quiz in the URA gallery. The latter taught me the terribly interesting fact that more than half of Singapore is not taken up by major infrastructure nor Defence but by reservoirs. Despite this, Singapore is not yet self sufficient in the water stakes but is working hard to change this vulnerability into a capability by surging ahead in water technology. Watch this space for yet another 'World's First' or 'World's Largest' something or other. I'm on the edge of my seat.

:: Food ::

Singaporeans eat at all hours of the day and when they are not eating, many of them are thinking or talking about food. These hobbit-like people are fully experienced at fitting in second breakfast, elevenses, afternoon tea, and supper around the usual three meals a day on which other people in the world subsist. But who can blame them? Singapore truly is a gastronomic paradise where food from all over the world can be sampled alongside local food which is a delicious mixture of Chinese, Indian and Malay. The fusion of Chinese and Malay has even given rise to a whole new class of cuisine, Peranakan. Laksa is an excellent example of a fusion dish for which all over Singapore, people carry on their relentless search for the ultimate 'die die must try' bowl.

Morning meal - take your pick from economic bee hoon with sambal chilli, chee cheong fun, loh mai kai, nasi lemak, yam cake, char siu bao, toast (with the crusts cut off) spread with kaya, or soft boiled eggs with a dash of soy sauce. Wash that down with a kopi or teh remembering to say your chosen appendage, lest you want your drink served with a heaped spoonful of sugar and a squirt of sweet condensed milk: 'o' (no milk) or 'c' (with unsweetened evaporated milk) or 'peng' (with ice); 'kosong' (no sugar) or 'siudai' (less sugar). For those on a caffeine avoidance programme, select soya milk or Milo, which can be served on ice or lukewarm.

Try Wang Cafe for the toast or egg dishes and any of the myriad of small coffee shops and food courts dotted around Singapore for the chillified selections.

Afternoon meal - first decide whether you want rice or noodles. Then, decide between meat, fish or vegetables or a combination. Next, something 'dry' (with a sauce) or 'wet' (with a soup). Finally, with or without chilli (unless you're having curry).

Evening meal - see 'Afternoon meal'. Rinse and repeat.

In-between meal snackettes - all manner of fish-based products: fish balls on a stick, fish crackers, fish pounded into a paste, wrapped into a beancurd-based wrapper and deep-fried to get the right balance of crunchy and chewy. Yum. You can also try pork floss buns (a bread roll topped with dried flaky pork using some kind of edible glue) or any of the other baked delicacies found in stores like Breadtalk or (the celebrities' favourite) Bread Pitt:



A quick note about 'chopeing' seats. Entering a hawker centre or food court, you may be surprised to see numerous abandoned packs of tissues dotted on the tables. Far from this being your opportunity to blow your nose or take a seat, please note that locals have placed those tissues there to save their seat. Should you be brave enough to sit in a 'choped' seat, be warned that coming between a Singaporean and his food could be the one and only time that you ignite a passionate and burning tirade of fury. Saying 'belly solly, lah' and moving away will, no doubt, defuse the situation immediately.

:: Language ::

Singlish is everywhere. Even in the workplace. Far from it being an uneducated way of speaking, I find it a refreshing take on the English language. Currently, I am perfecting when to use 'lah', 'lor', 'leh', and 'what' at the end of a sentence and have designated Friday afternoons for Singlish practice with my local colleagues, which they find rather amusing. My favourite so far (and the one I am finding hardest to incorporate into my conversations) is the particle 'wat', also spelled what, which is used to remind or contradict the listener, especially when strengthening another assertion that follows from the current one: "The food there not bad what. Can try lah."

In other news, this month's highlights include:

- One night, two helipads. We were lucky to receive invites to party on the helipad of the New Asia Bar, situated on no less than the 72nd floor. The cityscape views were awesome and it was fun to be reminded how high in the sky we were by the occasional strong gust of wind. To max out our 'high', we then went to Helipad.

- Blissin' out in Bali.

- Learning how to cook ravioli with Heather Barrie, Founder of Fine Palate.





Next up is a weekend in Bangkok, learning how to dive in Borneo and following the preparations for National Day. Stop using the national flag as a tablecloth, hang it outside your house for four weeks (not a moment longer - it's the law) and feel smugly patriotic. We are Singapore.

Asian Adventure 4 :: 10-12 Jul '09 :: Bali, Indonesia

Having been lucky enough to meet a superb group of friends in such a short space of time, we had a most amazing weekend on the Indonesian island of Bali. Just a 2.5 hour hop from Singapore, it's a perfect location for a weekend away that doesn't require any time off work. Beautiful beaches, trendy bars, and hidden treasures ensured that we all got very Bali Hai indeed.


Villa Bugan


On holiday with Big Foot


Seminyak

Gastronomy highlights: Top notch Indonesian lunch at Made's Warung II on Jalan Raya Seminyak and an exquisite beachside Mediterranean feast at La Lucciola.

Fifth month, gastro gang

This month, we have mostly been...

- Getting into the swing of the dinner party thing. As the bar scene in Singapore is somewhat lacking compared to London's homely public houses complete with roaring fires and edgy watering holes of the East End with mis-matching furniture and kids sporting designer kicks and flicks, it's a popular alternative to gather in friends' places for dinner and drinks. Added to this, you also get the benefit of cheaper alcohol and a maid to clear up after you. Bonus. So, we have now been treated to parties in a range of places: from a two storey semi-detached black and white house to an old school condominium fit for a princess; from a converted shop house in Little India to a finished-last-year condominium that gives new meaning to the term "über-plüsh". All have their own distinct charm and it is excellent that, despite Singapore's size, there is a wide range of different types of places which one can call home.

- Learning about the life of 'Expat Brats', or rather more kindly, 'Third Culture Kids', whilst hanging out at the Tanglin Club. On the whole, I have found them all to be very welcoming. I'm just glad that I wasn't still drinking off my parents' beer money at age 25.

- Dining at number 45 of the world's 50 best restaurants (according to San Pellegrino). Iggy's served up a ten course dining extravaganza with a lean towards delectable items from the sea. On certain occasions, we were informed in which order to consume the beautifully presented parcels of gastronomic joy and in between others, we were served delicate creations that certainly amused our mouths no end. Our two complaints were that at the credit crunchingly punchy price of S$195 per head, not including wine, one expects every course to be the taste (as well as the picture) of perfection. Whilst presentation was spot on, there were a couple of dishes that lacked the balance required in molecular gastronomy. Added to that, the setting (in the Regent Hotel) was a little cramped and the decor could do with a makeover, but the service received was five star and it's always nice when the maître d' shakes your hand when you leave.

- Experiencing our first foray into clubbing with 'proper' music at Zouk. We grooved and bopped to the sounds of Ricardo Villalobos. Our penchant for electronic music played on a high quality soundsystem surrounded by an up-for-it crowd was satisfied given that it was the first time in almost five months that we had graced the dancefloor of a place not known purely as a model hang out (Mimolette) or one that plays god-awful 'salsa-house' and offers 'culinary clubbing' (Supperclub). We also met up with two lovely guys via the power of the internet - from posting on 4Four. Geek chic clubbing.

- Entertaining my parents. The 'rents landed on a Sunday and I treated them to a homemade Malaysian chicken curry, fast becoming my signature dish, made with another fabulous kampong chicken from the wet market in Tiong Bahru. During the week that they were here, I was working, so I met up with them for lunches and dinners. Given that they are old hands at the inner workings of Sin City, they shun posh eateries in favour of hawker centres featuring in the Makansutra. We did, however, convene one evening for a family gathering at the Swiss and Asian buffet at the Swissotel Stamford, which (with the credit card dining discount - a Singaporean must-have) was just $20 per head. It was rather amusing to see Grandad wandering round making pains to avoid any of the Western food. Thankfully, there were enough fresh oysters to start a farm, so I overdosed on zinc and thoroughly enjoyed myself.

- Feeling a strong pang of homesickness. The departure of Dash's parents was the first feeling of missing home that I felt. The second came, rather oddly, when I was watching 'The Duchess' at the Screening Room for a 'Women in Business' networking event organised by Norton Rose. The scenes of the beautiful Georgian mansions and sweeping English countryside made a little lump appear in my throat that wasn't a poorly swallowed bitesize samosa from the nibbles tray. Thankfully, more free wine helped to numb the thoughts of being far away from home.

Next up is a trip back to Blighty to attend a fabulous wedding at a farm in Suffolk and celebrate six months of UK non-residency status. Just before that though, we shall be celebrating a birthday at a villa in Bali and no doubt hanging out at more 'phat' Singaporean pads. It's a hard life.

Asian Adventure 3 :: 15-17 May '09 :: Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

After a faultless one-and-a-half hour hop on Jetstar to Ho Chi Minh City's Tan Son Nhat International Airport, we secured the (seemingly) set price of US$10 for a trip into District 1 (Sài Gòn), and enjoyed our first experience of rush hour traffic, which has to be seen to be believed.

Never seen a motorcycle lane so full

Our taxi driver was a lady with painted eyebrows who sported a jacket, floppy sunhat and leather gloves. It was sunny and 28 degrees Celsius. This was true heliophobia (fear of the sun) - a trait common in Asia where pale skin is favoured as a way of distancing oneself from those who work as labourers (i.e. outside). Rather different from the West where people are keen to tan themselves as brown as the muck they are as common as, in Eastern eyes.

To get a feel for the area (Pham Ngu Lao) around our hotel before meeting our guide at 1pm, we wandered to grab lunch at the excellent Wrap and Roll and then walked to Thu Thiem Ferry Terminal on the Saigon River, taking in the Ben Thanh Market and the Opera House along the way.

Next up, we were met by the wonderful Van Dang from Connections Vietnam. For the ensuing four hours, Van took us on a whistle stop tour of some of the hidden districts of the City and gave us some excellent lessons in crossing the road. [Just walk very slowly out into the oncoming traffic and they will go around you]. We first journeyed around the famous market and Chinese temples of Cholon and then took a boat into District 2, once again being astounded by the sheer number of motorbikes (even on the boat itself) and the number of people allowed on a motorbike (by law, four at the last count)

Motorcyle Madness

One man, three children? No problem. Let's go!

District 2 has been ear-marked for proposed developments that look like very similar to the Singapore of now. Apparently, though, it's not unusual for such proposals to remain the daydreams of urban planners.

On return to District 1, we checked out the Notre-Dame Basilica (every stone of which was imported from France in the late 1800's) and enjoyed a street-side iced coffee before winding up at the last of the French colonial outposts, the Saigon Central Post Office.

Good to see Uncle Ho lives on inside the Post Office

As the sun began to fall, we embarked on a gastronomic adventure of Vietnamese wonderment. With the guidance of Van, we tried special dishes such as Xoi Man (sticky rice with chicken, shrimps, shallots and spring onions served with pickled mooli, cucumber and carrot) at Che Xoi (111 Bui Thi Xuan Street), Bun Rieu (noodles with tomato and crab) and Nem (flat spring rolls from North Vietnam) at a restaurant specialising in food from Hoi An and Banh Xeo (Vietnamese pancake filled with pork and beansprouts) at Long Huy (129 Cach Mang Thang Tam).

Seriously, everything we tried was lip-smackingly good. It was reassuring to note that Song Que, Viet Hoa and Huong Viet restaurants in Shoreditch and De Beauvoir, London, do a good rendition of Vietnamese dishes. However, the London scene can't quite beat sitting in a bustling restaurant, slurping whilst getting a bead on (a.k.a sweating) and listening to the sing-song chatter of the local Vietnamese. We ended the night by crossing one of the City's largest roundabouts by walking almost straight across the middle of it. Yes, we were only lit by the headlights of oncoming cars and motorbikes, but we were with our trusted Van, and that made anything achievable.

The next morning, we were up early after a breakfast at our hotel of last night's leftover dinners (for real, tasty fried rice, noodles, beef stew etc. alongside toast, cereal and fruit). This time, we were picked up by Giang Minh Nguyen to embark on a journey to the outskirts of the City where we went shopping with Mrs. Nghia at the local market (note: even in the tiny market lanes, motorcyclists do not dismount) for raw ingredients to make delicious goi cuon and beef pho (it's not 'fo', it's 'fur').

Goi Cuon Medley

Can't get enought goi cuon in my daily Singapore life

Beef pho made with real love

Over lunch, we learned how to say 'delicious' (ngon) and 'full' (ngot) but didn't attempt to say 'deliciously full' given that Vietnamese happens to be a very difficult language comprised of sounds that (to the untrained ear) are very similar.

In the afternoon, we headed over to see the two French protagonists of Wonderful District. It was most superb to meet Bertrand Peret and Sandrine Llouquet who gave us a keen insight into life as artists in the burgeoning creative scene in Vietnam. Both are wonderfully talented, forward-thinking, innovative and incredibly welcoming. They are working on a bi-lingual magazine on contemporary art in Asia and events under the Jet Lag brand, including an awesome end of year festival at Mui Ne, about five hours from Saigon.

After our enormous lunch, we decided that we had not had quite enough delectable cuisine so we headed to An Vien (178A Hai Ba Trung St, District 1), in the luxurious settings of an old French villa, where the highlight was a delicious king prawn soup that was garnished with edible flowers.

On our final day, we took in the War Remnants Museum and the Reunification Palace before heading to have our last Vietnamese coffee at the wonderfully secluded Serenata (6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, District 3), an open-air cafe-bar with live piano music tinkering around the walls of an old villa. I could have sat there all day, had it not been for the necessary journey back to Sin City.

All in all, we had a magical time in Ho Chi Minh City. What made it really special was the chance to meet locals and experience a little bit of their daily lives. It is, after all, the people that make a place.

Fourth month, fandango

This month, we have mostly been entertaining:

- Dash's parents (my soon-to-be-in-laws!). We kicked off their arrival with a homemade Malaysian chicken curry and the next day, enjoyed a walking tour of Kampong Glam and Little India after a ride on the Singapore Flyer. We were immensely glad not to have been trapped and winched down seven hours later.

View from the Flyer - you can see Temasek Tower (where Dash and I work) on the far left):



The next day, we journeyed East to Changi Village and stopped by Changi Chapel and Museum, which showcases informative accounts of the Japanese occupation and various prisoners' paraphernalia. We then welcomed the intermittent seaside breeze as we ambled along Changi Point Boardwalk:



They were then picked up by their Malaysian guide and driven around the mainland taking in the wonders of Malacca, the Taman Negara rainforest (one of the world's oldest rainforest est. 130 million years old), the Cameron Highlands, Penang and Langkawi for ten days before re-joining us in Singapore armed with a bunch of excellent tales of adventures and experiences highlighted by a super collection of photographs. Their favourites were the Cameron Highlands for its cooler climate and 'English kitchen garden' feel and staying in the Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion in Penang.

On their return for another weekend in Singapore, we completed a tour of Chinatown, taking in the excellent Chinatown Heritage Centre, the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, the Sri Mariamman Temple and inter-connecting streets and alleyways. We also checked out the Urban Redevelopment Authority (URA) which houses the futuristic models of Singapore (including the up and coming Marina Bay Sands Resort complete with Singapore's first [controversial] casino and eagerly-awaited sky park on the 51st storey):



Our final sojourn was to Jurong Bird Park and the lush peacefulness of the Botanic Gardens.

Eating highlights: Karma Kettle & Rhapsody (Dempsey) - rather eclectic "traditional European and colonial" menu. Wouldn't go back and can't now it's reported closed. Si Chuan Dou Ha - superb Chinese restaurant on the 60th floor of the UOB Plaza. Would go back just to witness the tea boy's ninja pouring skills. Melt @ The Mandarin Oriental - an array of international delights at this sumptuous buffet that never disappoints. Tiong Bahru Market - Tiong Bahru Pau did us proud and served up some breakfast items that were not too outlandish for our English visitors. Halia - beautiful setting nestled within the natural environs of the Botanic Gardens, one cannot fail to delight in the splendour of this restaurant.

- Tiong Bahru Tippling Club. We held our first party to christen our home with laughter, smiles and liquor. It was thoroughly enjoyable to welcome all of the people we had met so far to sample some of my edible treats and Dash's beats.

and being entertained:

- By journeying across the Southern Ridges. Our two hour walk encompassed the newly opened tree-top walkway at Telok Blangah Hill Park and the superbly designed highest pedestrian bridge in Singapore, Henderson Waves.



- At Giles Petersen's Worldwide Festival. Sadly, a rather disappointing turnout due to poor marketing meant that the beach festival was lacking somewhat in atmosphere. The music was OK for a commercially sponsored event. We continue on our quest for the 'sound of the underground' in Singapore. Slowly slowly, catchy monkey, as they say.

- By the tremors felt after the explosion at Marina Bay. From Temasek Tower, the 'boom' was accompanied by views of the mushroom clouds of smoke after the blasts went off in triplicate. An odd scene in 'Safety Singapore'.

- By the amusing Chinese anecdotes that my colleagues have been treating me to. (i) Not only does Milo make you "heaty" but a whole bunch of other foods can also make you feel 'hot' or 'cold'. (ii) Putting too much Milo into your mix of hot water and milk will create a "Milo Dinosaur" and you can even order one of these in a coffee shop. (iii) The local Chinese pudding place at Amoy Street Food Centre sells such delights as 'yam paste with gingko nuts' and 'turtle pudding'. Now, which one of those is going to make me hot or cold (or just plain sick)? (iv) For not wishing to try the aforementioned puddings, I have been labelled a 'sua ku' (lit. mountain turtle). Yes, imagine a turtle that hid in its shell all day and lived in the mountains. True, it would not be a very adventurous individual. However, I reject the suggestion that said turtle would enjoy 'turtle pudding'.

Next month, more friend-making, party-attending and general enjoyment in the sunshine, as well as welcoming our next set of guests: my parents! Most excellent.

Third month, growing roots

This month, we have mostly been feeling like we are starting to grow roots in Sin City. As this really is 'Asia-Lite', a coin termed by mainly given this fair isle's cleanliness and welcoming nature, we are now bedding down in our 'home from home':

- Caught up with some aunties, uncles and my granddad over a superb selection of Malay and Indonesian dishes at the locally famed Zion Road Nasi Padang. Thanked my blessings for my poor attempts thus far to learn Mandarin. I only had to endure indirect chastisement (via translation) for confirming that I do not give my parents any money. This being an age-old tradition here, my granddad was very curious to know whether I am partaking. Having only reached the post of a launderette worker, his state pension is woefully small but he is lucky enough to rely upon (and will be until he checks out of this life) the generous donations of his children. He accused me of 'not being filial enough'; however, being told off in a foreign language never quite has the impact of the real deal, so I comforted myself in my ignorant English shroud and tucked into another spoonful of curried eggplant.

- Being of the type who've spent their twenties in and out of various nightclubs and outdoor festivals around the world, it was with a degree of sadness that we attended the last party at the now defunct KM8 beach bar. The fact that the website is still functioning is a sign that the spirit of this place may never die. They are, in fact, replacing the chillaxathon-day-space-morphing-into-raucous-night-time-ravathon with a more upmarket venue, which the 'authorities' believe will calm down the racing heartbeats and washed out drunken faces of the locals and expats who frequented KM8. Little do they know that rich people can be just as (if not more) ludicrously behaved than those without Liberia's deficit in their sky-rocket. Oh well. If it gives the 'authorities' more feeling of 'control' then it must be good. Right? I look forward to visiting the new space armed with a bottle of Bollinger and a picnic hamper. I might tuck a couple of glowsticks in the side pocket, though, just in case.

- Had a curious dining experience at Red Star, Dim Sum Restaurant, which is famed for being one of the only and one of the best Hong Kong style dim sum experiences, where they push overflowing carts of dumpling-filled bamboo steamers from table to table. After queuing for 20 minutes on the monumental hangover from the night before, we were finally directed towards a table piled high with dirty dishes and half-chewed pork ribs on a chilli-stained table cloth. After another 5 minutes, someone came to clear the dim sum detritus and I had learned the order of the day: Due to the enormity of the restaurant and the age of many of the waiting staff, the push carts just didn't quite seem to be making the full rounds. Many of the carts were surrounded by locals of all ages like bees round a honey pot. These bees, however, were armed with hungrily waved yellow scorecards. I whipped our yellow card out of its holder and spent our entire lunchtime hastily munching on a few dumplings and then leaping up to grab a front row spot at the next new cart. In all of this kerfuffle, I was unable to locate even one 'aunty' who was serving my favourite, har kau. Red Star was apparently started in the 1970s by four top chefs in Singapore. Clearly, their philosophy of "economical, value-for-money, and tasty food" died when they did.

- Wandered around the eerily deserted Haw Par Villa, a Chinese mythological theme park. The Ten Courts of Hell is by far the best bit. Where else in the world, let alone Singapore, can you marvel at dimly lit sculptures of drug dealers being pulverised by a millstone, prostitutes having their arms and legs cut off and liars having their tongues cut out. We left feeling smug that we were 'good citizens' and unlikely to face a mean looking long-bearded Chinese dude before being sent to our deaths.


Kids, this is what happens to you if you're bad. Just say no.

Spot the monkey.

- Attended a great birthday dinner at the ridiculously named "Brunch". Thankfully, the choice of name was the only error on the part of the owners. The outdoor BBQ buffet was excellent with king prawns, cod, steaks, lamb chops, and sausages brought to our table and a help-yourself salad and dessert bar. Of course when washed down by a 'free-flow' of beers and wines, most meal experiences would be "like, really great and I love this and that and blah" but I do recall moments prior to being hit by intense inebriation when my taste buds were telling me good things.

- Hung out at Helipad after over-indulging in chargrilled items and freeflow. Now, I'm all for al fresco tippling under a hot Italian sun, but when it comes to outdoor binge drinking on a Singapore rooftop with not a breath of wind, I am less amenable. After tucking in to a couple of the drinks made by drunkards (at many Singapore bars, you can order whole bottles of spirits and disproportionately small carafes of mixers to ensure you set sail into oblivion), I consoled myself by resting with my feet in an ice bucket, much to the disdain of my fellow companions. I decided it should be time to go home after I started to threaten them with poorly-expressed ideas of where I might be soon placing cubes of my 'foot ice'. Despite Helipad's unimaginably challenging route of access, we managed to find our way downstairs via a brief respite of air-conditioning and out into the sweltering humidity. Beginning to run out of fingers for the number of times I have fallen asleep in the back of the taxi on the way home.

- Endured and enjoyed our second Asian Adventure!

Next up is local touring to show our home city to our first guests from London. Expect tales of meanderings in the searingly hot sun and taste-bud tantalisation interspersed with some more weekends involving liquid inebriation and getting high (on life).

Asian Adventure 2 :: 10-12 Apr '09 :: Penang and Langkawi, Malaysia

Experienced a catalogue of errors in Langkawi. After doing a heritage site 'sweep' (a bit like in the supermarket but without a trolley and numerous canned items) of Penang in just under four hours (during which time, the roadside roti canai and the floating villages were the key highlight), we left the colonial charm of Georgetown and just half an hour later were deposited on the south western beach of Pantai Cenang, Langkawi. We soon discovered our 'strip' was little more than a mixture of ramshackle huts selling ring-stingingly chillified Nasi Lemak (pictured below) and enough gaudy flower-powered fashions to take you on a much-needed psychedelic journey through this drug-free tourist-saturated wasteland.



Added to having found two enormous dead rats on the beach outside our hotel, we discovered that the only snorkeling trips available from our area were day-long adventures. It was not a good feeling to find this out at 0945, when the last trip had departed at 0915. To attempt a mitigation of intense disappointment, we plumped for an 'island drop' which involved chartering our own boat with the promise of a 'private island' experience.

Within the hour, we were feeling the horrific effects of being 'lost in translation'. Clearly, in Langkawi, 'private' means in full sight of (i) the embarkation jetty, (ii) numerous speedboats trailing brightly coloured banana boats, and (iii) a few parasailing nutters. Needless to say, there was no snorkeling to be had. As the incoming tide began to lick our towels, we decided to go on a recce of the island. Turns out it was a dis-used wildlife sanctuary, complete with eerily quiet cages, slowly rotting picnic furniture, and a satisfyingly scary Monitor Lizard Pond.

With the sighting of one of the lizard 'escapees' and a large sign advertising the fact that 'Earth Tiger Tarantulas' could be spotted nearby, our minds were infiltrated by images of being chased through the undergrowth by the natives in true Blair Witch Project style. We retreated back to our strip of sand that the tide had kindly re-exposed and took some comedy shots to make ourselves feel better:



The two saving graces of our trip to Langkawi that we sought solace in and would recommend, should you become stranded and need to leave your resort to venture into this sadly disheveled area: Matahari for an excellent Malay tasting menu and the Beach Garden Resort Bistro & Beer Garden (fill your mouth with too many words and delicious seafood all in one evening). Overall, Langkawi received a poor score on the Asian Adventures Matrix, beaten so far by the rustic charm of Pulau Sibu and heritage sites of Penang.